INCI: EthylHexyl MethoxyCinnamate (EHMC)
Uvinul® MC 80 stabilized with 0.07 ± 0.02% BHT, is approved worldwide and is the most frequently used UV filter. Octyl Methoxycinnamate is a liquid oil soluble UV filter and can be dispersed to the oil phase of cosmetic preparations. It is compatible with most cosmetic ingredients. Due to Octyl Methoxycinnamate is a derivate of cinnamate acid (unsaturated fatty acid), an antioxidant should be added to the cosmetic composition, to guarantee the oxidative stability of the product. Antioxidants should could be for example vitamin E, or BHT.
It can readily be incorporated without problem in all the usual cosmetic raw materials (fats and oils). Soluble in oil & alcohol, Propylene Glycol, Isopropanol, water insoluble.
Function:
Potent absorber of sun rays (mainly UVB, less UVA) / 270-328 nm, protecting the skin from damage. It is also used to reduce the appearance of scars. Can be added to formulas as is, recommended final concentration 2-10%, 1% corresponds to a sun protection factor (SPF) of about 2. Maximum allowed: USA 7.5 %, Europe & Japan 10 %. Should be stored light-protected.
Potent absorber of sun rays (mainly UVB, less UVA) / 270-328 nm, protecting the skin from damage. It is also used to reduce the appearance of scars. Can be added to formulas as is, recommended final concentration 2-10%, 1% corresponds to a sun protection factor (SPF) of about 2. Maximum allowed: USA 7.5 %, Europe & Japan 10 %. Should be stored light-protected.
Octyl Methoxycinnamate has furthermore excellent properties for solid UV filters like for example Butyl Methoxy dibenzoyl methane. If you like to reach higher SPF value you should keep in mind, that a mixture of different UV filters would provide a solution.
Degrades overtime when exposed to sunlight, therefore not the most photo-stable. Can be stabilized by other UV filters such as Tinosorb M
There has been a lot of rumors/ suspicion lately about many substances that may belong to the category of potential endocrine disruptors.
For the time being, based on the investigation so far, such a view has not been substantiated for Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, as for other sunscreens (eg PABA / Para AminoBenzoic Acid). If at some point this opinion is demonstrated, there will definitely be a downward modification of their concentration limits in the sunscreen formula.
Applications: Sun care & after-sun products, hair care products, protective creams & lotions, liquid makeup products.
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